Sunday, 28 January 2018

Sew Over It 1940s Wrap Dress

This is my second christmas holiday make, and was supposed to be the Sew Over It Ultimate Wrap Dress, which is for stretch fabric.  This reason it's the 1940s Wrap Dress is because I have no memory!


In my head this fabric was a stretch fabric; turned out it isn't!  It is, in fact, some viscose twill from The Textile Centre for the princely sum of £3.99 per metre.  I lifted it out of the stretch fabrics box, and was momentarily disappointed - until I eyeballed the 1940s Wrap Dress pattern lying on the sewing room floor.


I made a combination of both views - the longer sleeves from version 1 (which I shortened a bit), and the shorter skirt from version 2.  And, you might want to sit down for this, I didn't make a toile!  I know!!  The Sew Over It Eve Dress fitted me well, so I compaired the bodice and sleeve pieces, and as expected, they are pretty similar.  Also, a wrap dress is a bit more forgiving in fit.


The pattern recommends 2.8 metres long of 1.40 metre wide fabric for version 2 (that's for Size 10), but I only had 2 metres, so had to do a bit of pattern tetrising.   Totally worked though!  I'd already cut out the two front skirt pieces, and the skirt facing, from the bottom of the fabric when I took this photo.


The pattern instructions are great, and there is also a sewalong on the Sew Over It blog.  I stablised the front neckline with some seam binding, as suggested on the sewalong.  It was a good idea with this fabric, as being viscose, it was a bit shifty.  Also, I stabilised the shoulder seams with seam binding, but do this on any garment.

Black seam binding on wrong side of front neckline.

I understitched the outside edge of the under collars, as it just made sense to get the collar seam to roll under slightly.


If I made this again I might add 1/4" to the width of the neckline binding, as I found it wee bit neat to fold under on the fronts.  But this could have been the front neckline seam binding adding a little bit of bulk, as it was easier to work with along the back neck.

I also machine stitched the binding in place, because I couldn't be bothered to hand sew it.  I moved the collar out of the way so the stitches don't show on the front, but wasn't able to get right up to where the collar joins the shoulder seams, so that bit is hand sewn. 

Love the pleats at the shoulders.
 

The waistband isn't the easiest thing to sew, but the sewalong post is very helpful, and I only had to unpick the pointed end twice!  A thing I noticed once the skirt was attached was that my bodice and skirt gathers didn't match up as on the pattern illustration on the print out instructions, which I had in front of me.


I didn't think to look at any photos of the finished dress, and thought I must have marked the waist gather incorrectly.  So I unpicked most of the skirt front, and moved the skirt gathers to line up under the bodice gathers.  But when I did look at the finished dress photos, I see that I was right the first time.  I just wanted to point that out in case anybody uses my dress as a reference.  


I cheated a bit by machine stitching the bottom of the waistband down instead of hand sewing it as in the instructions.  So instead of pressing the bottom inside of the waistband under by 5/8", I pressed it by 1/2", then stitched it along the point where it joins the skirt from the outside (stitching in the ditch).
 
 

There was a bit of head scratching when I tried it on, as the wrap sections didn't meet at the side seams!  That was when I thought to look at the finished dress photos, and I could see that they aren't supposed to.  If you take a look at the dress photos on Sew Over It, you'll see what I mean.  In the photo below I've marked the skirt side seam with a white pin.

 

I used snap fasteners to close the dress, and had a bit of a disaster!  I wasn't happy with one on the left front, and cut it off to move it over, but stupidly cut a hole in the waistband!!  It's on the front that is against the skin, so after calming down a bit, I went over it with a zig zag stitch, and it's grand.


I love how this dress turned out, and seem to be a bit obsessed with wrap dresses, as I have made another one, and am half way through a second!


Have a great week,

Lynne

16 comments:

  1. Gosh this is really lovely Lynne and the colours are so you! Its such a nice shape and fit.I like the fact that it has a waistband rather than the usual ties associated with wrap dresses too.

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    1. Thanks Diane! I love the colours in the fabric too, and also the waistband. It's a bit different to most wrap dresses, and also no ties to trip over!

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  2. Love the fabric - very cute and very vintag-y !

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    1. Thank you! I think the fabric goes well with the pattern.

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  3. Love the look of this dress Lynne. I've been looking at the other Sew Over It patterns and there are some others that I like the look of too. There's just not enough time in the week!

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    1. Thanks Helen! I'm a big fan of Sew Over It, their patterns are lovely. I hear you with the not enough time in the week! I keep saying that having to go to work really eats into my crafting time!!

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  4. I really like the pleat details and the colours are fabulous on you. Your binding looks so neat! I agree with you that wrap dresses are lovely to wear and I've been sewing another New Look stretch knit one for spring from a fabric that I ordered to make a top from, but which was too thin when it arrived. Sometimes as you say the fabric that turns up is not what you were expecting but you've certainly ended up with a beautiful dress!

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    1. Thanks Elaine! I had been hoarding this fabric for the "perfect" pattern, and I'm pleased with how they go together. I really don't know why I thought it had stretch in it!

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  5. Totally agree with Diane, love both the style and colour on you.

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    1. Thanks Mags! I really love this fabric, wish I could get more in another print!

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  6. Such a great fit for a wrap dress and all without a practice run! I have a bunch of seam binding and I honestly hadn't figured out where I would use it but for a wrap edge it's the perfect way to stabilize it - thank you!

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    1. Thanks Kathleen! I can't take credit for the seam binding use - it was in the sewalong! But it's really handy stuff. Sadly it's tricky to get the hold off in the UK, and I get in 5m lengths off ebay.

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  7. Well this fabric is a great match for the 1940s wrap dress anyway - lovely twill ;o)

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    1. Thanks Colette! I think they go together really well.

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  8. Lovely dress as always Lynne - the colour and print really suit you!

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    1. Thanks Ruth! I really love the colours in this fabric.

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Thank you for reading my blog! I love reading your comments, so please feel free to leave a comment if you have the time :) Lynne.