Friday, 27 April 2018

Deer And Doe Pavot Coat - 2018 Make Nine

As mentioned in my last post, this is number four of my 2018 Make Nine.  It's the Deer And Doe Pavot Coat, which I made once before here.


Sadly this pattern has now been discontinued, which is a real shame because I think it's a great coat, and a bit 1960s.  My first version has been worn to death, so obviously I loved it! 

  



I made a few mods to my first version:
  • I totally over-complicated the first one by adding welt pockets, so went with the side seam pockets as on the pattern.  (I still managed to over-complicate this one too - read on...)
  • I was never happy with the length of the sleeves on the first one as I had shortened them a little too much, so added 1" back on.
  • And talking of sleeves, the original is a one piece sleeve, which I converted to a two piece sleeve.  For this I used the Craftsy Pattern Making And Design Creative Sleeves class.  This was not without it's challenges, but I got there in the end!
  • Also, I took some height out of the sleeve head to remove the gathers, as I didn't think my fabric would appreciate them. 


Talking of fabric, my main fabric and lining are all from The Spinning Wheel in Belfast.  The main fabric was bought about a year ago, and is heavy cotton sateen with a tiny bit of stretch.  It was the end of bolt that I spotted at the bottom of a shelf.  There was 2.75 metres left reduced to £13.20, so obviously it had to come home with me.  The buttons are from Sew N Sew in Belfast for the princely sum of 68p each.

 

The lining is polyester, I can't remember off the top of my head how much it was, maybe £4 or £5 per metre.  Anyway, it comes in a few colours, and I also have the purple version squirreled away, because - purple.

The one thing that I dislike about the Pavot pattern is that there is no lining, so I drafted one for my first version.  Now, you'd think that someone who had gone to all that trouble would have the wit to use the lining again on their second version, but apparently not!!  (Cue over-complicating).


 

I decided it would be an excellent idea to line the coat as underlining, and do a Hong Kong binding on the seams.  This. Took. For. Ever.  Seriously, if I ever mention doing this again, come round to my house, and confiscate the bias tape!


I love how it looks, but seriously - For. Ever.  And you know what's not fun?  Unpicking Hong Kong binding in black bias tape, on black fabric, with black thread.  I had to do that on the front seam of the sleeves when the binding made them sit weirdly at the elbows.  So those seams, and the armholes, are overlocked - which is what I should have done with the sleeves in the first place.  Sigh.

Here's a link to the post about my dress
But have a look at what I did with the pockets, this is my favourite bit!  I attached a piece of ribbon behind the front facing and the back of the pocket bag to keep the pocket in place. 

 

I was going to hand sew an area of the pocket edge to the front skirt lining , but thought it might pull a bit from the outside.  Then I remembered seeing something like this in a jacket in a shop recently, it might have been in Next?  Anyway, I think this is genius, even if I say so myself, and having worn this coat for a few weeks now, I can confirm that this totally works.!

Also, I am loving the top stitching, and how well I managed to get the pattern on the fabric to line up.  Lots of crawling around the floor and cutting out on a single layer.



I love how this coat has turned out, and it's definitely filling a hole in my wardrobe.  And I am sorely tempted by the Deer and Doe Luzerne Trench Coat, as it is the trench coat of my dreams, but it's not lined either.  Pants.




Have a great weekend,

Lynne

14 comments:

  1. Gorgeous Lynne! I love the fabric and the finish to the inner part of the coat. Xx

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    1. Thanks Shirley! I'm really delighted with how it all eventually turned out!

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  2. It was worth all the effort. The Hong Kong seams looks so smart and the top stitching from the outside adds another dimension to the coat. The work on the sleeves was well worth it. I’m sure you will wear this one to death too.

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    1. Thanks Sandra! I really love how the sleeves turned out because they did annoy me a bit on the first one, and the pain is fading on the bias binding!!

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  3. Stunning! I love this coat and all that hong kong finish (I can only imagine how much work this was!!) is so beautiful. I had a client recently who had a coat with all the inside seams finished with Hong Kong seaming and I was stunned - I thought honestly the coat must have cost her a small car so all that work totally ramps the classiness of this coat into the stratosphere. No one would believe what you actually paid for it in a million years. I made a Morris jacket last year out of coat cashmere (the selvage said it was originally from the UK - it was in a thrift shop if you can imagine - I think I paid $10 for it) and was SO sorry I didn't do a hong kong seam finish after it was done (I had overlocked the seams).

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    1. Thanks Kathleen! I would say that these Hong Kong seams are expensive in time rather than money, because I really can't express just how long they took to do!! What a find in the thrift shop! The charity shops here are rubbish, and I've never found fabric in them. I wonder if it would be possible to do a Hong Kong seam on your finished coat? It might be difficult to get in underneath where two seams join though.

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  4. Love your coat! The ribbon on the pocket bag is a nifty little touch and all your alterations are so well thought out! I’d love to make their Lucerne too and yes, it’s the fact that it has no lining that makes me hesitate. Well done xxxx

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    1. Thanks Sarah! I am utterly delighted with that wee ribbon, and it works perfectly! And I feel that I am weakening on buying Lucerne, because a few days ago I found a sample of green cotton twill from My Fabrics that would be perfect...

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  5. Wow wow wow. This is a masterpiece. Your sewing skills are top class. Those seams.....
    This is the type of finish one would expect from designer clothes. (If one had the money to buy them........) You are a truly talented lady.
    I am jealous as hell. But in a good way. Well done.

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    1. Thanks Lizzi!! You're too kind! This is honestly not that hard to do, I would say that it's easier that inserting a proper lining, it's just realllllly time consuming (did I mention that??!!).

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  6. I love all your coats - this is so much work! Love the pocket stay idea. Also yes, unpicking black on black is THE worst ;o)

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    1. Thanks Colette! The only redeeming thing about the unpicking was that it daylight in the evening when I did it!

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  7. It looks lovely Lynne - and I love your trick with the ribbon on the pocket! I can imagine that all that binding must have been a bit of a pain, but it does look very clean and professional!

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    1. Thanks Ruth! I'm so pleased with that wee ribbon on the pockets, and it really does stablise them.

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Thank you for reading my blog! I love reading your comments, so please feel free to leave a comment if you have the time :) Lynne.