Friday, 21 July 2017

Closet Case Patterns - Ginger Flares

This is my third pair of GingersThe first pair are here, but the second pair didn't make it to the blog due to bad fabric happening to good sewists.  Anyway, the fabric for this pair came from a sale at Sherwood Fabrics.

 

My first pair were always a little bit big, so I went down a size on these one's.  That said, they are still a bit roomy at the top of the back of the legs.  You can see that's where they're a bit baggy in this photo.

I also took the outside side-seams in a bit from the low hip to the knee.  I'm going to have a look in my trouser fitting book "Pants For Real People", but if anybody knows any good resources on what pattern alteration to make, please let me know.  Thanks!

Construction was pretty straight-forward, but I don't really love the fly extension (I think that's what it's called - it's the bit that sits behind the zip on the front right).  Mine is at a bit of an angle, but I didn't notice until after I'd overlocked it, so now it's a design feature...

 

The inside of the pockets are made from the left-overs from my Liberty sleeveless shirt, which I happened to be wearing when I took my photos!


All the top-stitching is done in dark blue, which has the drawback of making it difficult to see, but the benefit of disguising the dodgy bits.   After the jeans button/rivets battle on the first pair, I felt no desire to go there again, so just used a green metal button from my button jar.
 

I also added two belt loops on either side of the centre back seam, instead of one over the centre back seam.  As with the first pair, I used normal thread in the same colour as my top-stitching thread to sew the belt loops on.


I decided to get all fancy with the back pockets, and copied the pockets off some jeans I saw on the internet.  Now, as much as I absolutely love how they turned out, they took waaaay longer than they should have to sew!  If you want to drive yourself crazy too, there's a how to at the bottom of this post.



I love how my jeans turned out.  They're a much better fit than my first pair, and hopefully I can sort out the fitting issues on the back legs for the next pair.



Have a great weekend,

Lynne

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Here's how I made the back pockets (the pocket in all of these photos is the right hand side pocket, the left hand side pocket is a mirror image):

I added 2 x 2cm inserts into the pockets.  One is in the centre, and the other is 2.5cm towards the outside edge of the pocket.  Mark the edges of the inserts with a notch, and snip it into the fabric.


On the right side, rule the inserts lines with chalk, notch snip to notch snip.  (That red pin is so I know I'm working with the right hand side pocket!)

 
Fold chalk line to chalk line, towards the outside edge of the pocket, and pin in place.  It's handy to mark the seam allowance in with chalk too, then you won't accidentally top-stitch into it.


 Top-stitch as in my photo, or do your own thing!


Here's what it looks like closer up.  I found it helpful to hand sew the folds down from the inside, as the bits that are not top stitched were pulling a bit.  I noticed this when I basted the jeans together and pinned the pockets on for fit.


The extra folds in the pocket top made it tricky to fold over twice and stitch, so I made a facing.  Cut the facing using pattern piece "L - Back Pockets Interfacing", but add 3/4" to the bottom.


 Mark 1/2" in on both short edges,


then trim the 1/2" off.  This helps reduce bulk in the seam allowances.


Interface the back of the facing, and finish one long edge on the overlocker.


Place the facing, right sides together, along the top of the pocket with the overlocked edge at the bottom.  Make sure the facing is 1/2" in from the pocket edge on both sides.  Sew using a 3/4" seam allowance.


Trim the seam allowance down, and press the facing to the back of the pocket.  Press the seam allowances in on the pockets as on the pattern instructions.


Top-stitch to the jeans, then reward yourself by buying some lovely fabric!


16 comments:

  1. Love these! I haven't worm flares for years but I think this has reminded me how much I loved them!
    Frankie
    Www.knitwits-owls.blogspot.co.uk

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    1. Thanks Frankie! What's not to love about flares?! I'm a big fan!

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  2. The back pockets may have taken ages to make, but they look great so worth the effort! And I love the fact that your pockets match your shirt!

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    1. Thanks Ruth! I do love how both lots of pockets look. And hopefully if I made the back pockets again, they won't be so troublesome!

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  3. Always so beautifully crafted. And I love a wee flash of Liberty - great detail.

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    1. Thanks Lizzi! Who doesn't love Liberty?! It's gorgeous!

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  4. Seeing your jeans was such a walk down memory lane for me! I wore a really wide bell bottom of course in the '70's which I loved (I have long legs being 5;8" tall) and one pair I owned were fairly snug in the thigh and spread out to quite a bell in the bottom. I loved the feel of that swish of the bell when I walked or "strutted" being 16 years old in 1970 :) Your jeans are wonderful! So nicely stitched, great fit and suit you perfectly!

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    1. Thanks Kathleen! Glad to have sparked the memories!! You lucky thing having long legs, I'm really tiny and sometimes think flares aren't really for me. Then I catch myself on, and just wear them!!

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  5. Looks great! I love the pleated back pockets, and the liberty inside. And the silhouette, of course!

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    1. Thanks Kelly! With jeans, it's the little details that really make the difference. And it's it great that we sewists can add whatever details that we like?!

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  6. The mark of a true stylist - a blouse that matches your pocket lining! Fab.
    Great looking jeans and unique back pockets - thanks for the info.

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    1. Thanks Ruth! I would love to say that the shirt/pocket combo was carefully planned, but in reality, I didn't realise until I was editing my photos!!

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  7. Love the pocket detail and the lining.

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  8. These look really great! I'm so intimidated about making these. I really don't think I'll get a good fit. 99% of jeans fit me weird, so I think if I make these there will be lots of alterations and fit issues. One day though, I'll do it!

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    1. Thanks Amy! Not going to lie, there is a lot of sewing in making jeans! But, as many others have said, the instructions on these ones are brilliant. Good luck with yours!

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Thank you for reading my blog! I love reading your comments, so please feel free to leave a comment if you have the time :) Lynne.