Sunday, 10 September 2017

Vogue 8346 - View B: Part 2 - Alterations And Embellishments

This is my second post on the construction of my winter coat using Vogue 8346 - View B.  Click on my previous post for the first one.  In this post I'm going to attempt to not waffle too much about the alterations and embellishments that I made.




Alterations 

Lapel

I ended up doing a lot more work than I expected to my pattern.  The majority of it was to get the shape of the collar and lapel that I wanted.  I'd love to be able to give an in-depth explanation, but a lot of it was just winging it! 

As mentioned in my first post, I was disappointed with the lapel.  The pattern has two different collars, a shawl collar, and a collar and lapel.  When I unfolded the pattern I expected to see two different pieces for the coat front - one for each collar.  Turns out I was wrong.

There was one coat front piece, then the shawl collar piece, the other collar piece and then a separate piece for the label. 


Attaching coat front and lapel was easy.  I just marked in the seam allowances (in red in the photo), folded over the lapel seam allowance, and lined it up with the coat front.


Next I wanted to make the lapel wider, and round out the end.  So added some paper, and got out my fancy French Curves. 


On the pattern, the collar and lapel separate at the point where the lapel rolls back on itself.  Naturally I didn't want this!!  I wanted the collar and lapel to separate further along the lapel as on my Butterick Jacket below.


I did find one of the Craftsy pattern drafting classes helpful though as a starting point on changing where the collar and lapel meet.  It was "Patternmaking And Design: Collars and Closures".  

Basically, what I did was to decide on a point where I wanted the lapel and collar separate.   It ended up being the short purple line that I have marked with the blue pins in the photo below (ignore the green circle, that was Plan A).  I also curved out the bit where the lapel meets the neckline.   
 


The collar took a bit more work...

Collar

Firstly I made the collar bigger by adding more the outside edge and blending in towards the back.  I also rounded out the end.


I'd made a toile using the original collar and lapel.  I marked on it where I wanted the collar and lapel to separate, and then measured the distance of the gap between them. 


Then, from the collar edge, I measured out to where the break from the lapel would be along the seam line.  From that point I measured down the distance taken from the toile as above, and connected them all up.  The final bit was to draw a line out the outer edge of the collar.

That is really hard to describe, and hopefully makes more sense in this photo.


Finally I rounded all the lines out, to give the shape I wanted.  Below is what the Upper Collar piece looks like with the point where the collar and lapel meet marked with blue pins.


This is how it turn out.  The original collar and lapel is on the left, and my changes are on the right.


On the original pattern the same lapel piece is added to the facing, so I added a bit to the outside edge from the top of the lapel to the where it meets the coat front.  This is so the facing/coat lapel seam will roll under slightly.  This is the same as cutting an under collar a bit smaller than an upper collar.

Sleeves

The sleeves are one piece sleeves (why?!), so I converted them to two piece sleeves using the Craftsy class "Patternmaking And Design: Creative Sleeves".  I also added a big cuff as in my inspiration photos in my last post.  Also I shortened the sleeves by 7cm - 3.5 cm above and below the elbow.


Fit

The only change I made to the fit was to shorten the body by 1" at the lengthen/shorten lines above the waist. 


Embellishments

I had a bit of fun with these!  There are epaulets on the shoulders, I'm not sure if I'll go with these, but we'll see.


This tab thingy on the back, which I love.

And this faux pocket flap on the front.  I could make proper welt pockets, but I couldn't be bothered, and the pattern has pockets in the side seams.  You can just about see it on the right in the photo below, which is what my toile ended up looking like.  Excuse the wrinkles!


Sorry this turned out to be a lot longer than expected, but I know future me will find it helpful to have this recorded somewhere!

Until next time,

Lynne

5 comments:

  1. I don't know how in the world I missed that gorgeous green coat! I will be following your coat making posts this time.

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    1. Thanks Faye! I'm really proud of that green coat!!

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  2. Wow, that's quite a lot of work already just on the toile! Worth it to get just what you want though, and I really like the changes you made to the collar/lapel.

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    1. Thanks Ruth! Yeah, it turned out to be a lot more work than I expected! At the minute the under collar is attached to the coat, and that was the bit I was dreading, but I think it's ok.

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  3. I'm looking forward to seeing your finished coat - this is such an interesting journey that you're taking us on.

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Thank you for reading my blog! I love reading your comments, so please feel free to leave a comment if you have the time :) Lynne.